Haines, Base Camp for Outdoor Adventure

For the first time I was able to sail on the new high speed ferry The MV Fairweather. What a difference! Though small by comparison, it had a feeling of modern luxury. Wood flooring, nice carpets, a large skylight and comfortable “club” style seating. It did however have very limited outside seating but on this drizzly grey morning it didn’t feel bad to stay inside. In a short time we passed up the narrow Lynn Canal with towering peaks paralleling our course. Passing famous rocks and reefs that had claimed ships, the clouds lifted as we approached Haines revealing it’s unique location on a thin isthmus between two great rivers. Hanging glaciers made a backdrop for the historic Fort Seward buildings and the relaxed “downtown” of modern Haines.

I had been given the name and phone number of a local person who was willing to rent me a 4-wheel drive, he kindly met me several miles out of town at the ferry landing. We drove south to his small but pleasant cabin resort at the end of the road south of town. When we got out, he left the engine running as he walked into the lodge. I called after him, “don’t you want me to sign some paperwork?” He replied, “no just don’t wreck it.” I then called, louder because he was all the way up to the lodge by this time, “how long can I keep the vehicle.” He called back, as he disappeared inside, “as long as you need it.” That was my friendly and laidback welcome to Haines, Alaska. I soon found that everyone I met was as nice, if not quite that casual.

I had several adventures in Haines, up to the Canadian Border, historic buildings, plentiful hiking, but my most dramatic was the flight across Glacier Bay. As always, being flexible helped and just when all my possibilities seemed exhausted, opportunity presented itself like an unexpected gift. Flying over the glaciers and snowfields we descended into the channels and bays. So many of the tidewater glaciers had become “grounded” during the 65 mile recession that had occurred in the last 200 years. Still, there were some fascinating calving going on. Floating high above, we actually enjoyed the perspective of huge and smaller tour ships plugging along and parking besides these wondrous formations. I was fortunate to have one of the more experienced pilots and he was happy to share special sidetrips and maneuvers to maximize our experience. Gliding down the Davis Glacier into Lynn Channel with seemingly only the whistling wind holding us up was amazing. We also were able to chat with a pilot trying to bring climbers off of Mt. Fairweather during a break in the storm. I was scheduled to go in with him on his last trip but the weather closed in again.

I enjoyed the small friendly population and outdoorsy feel of Haines despite or because of the fewer amenities. The brown bear (Grizzly) strolling the beach below camp wasn’t bad either.