Petersberg to Sitka, A Memorable Voyage

The ferry ride from Petersburg to Sitka is long but offered the most variety of any route I'd taken. Leaving the dock we passed huge sea lions, drowsy in the early morning light, seeming more like whales as they moved with surprising grace through the water. Soon we began to pass the real whales, humpbacks. Whatever the reason whether feeding, communication, or play; each one was putting on a show, rising up out of the water and slashing their gigantic pectorial fins through the air. The demonstrations were a wonder for us all. Small groups of Dalls Porpoises splashed by the ferry, delighting the few children aboard, especially because they mistakenly thought they were baby orcas.

Around the first island we made a much too short a stop at Kake, famous for having the world's tallest authentic totem pole. And it was incredibly tall! Then a long glide north as we passed the seemingly endless snow and icefields of the mountainous backbone of Baranof Island on the west and the ominously quiet Admiralty Island on the east. This island is famous for its Kootznoowoo Wilderness. The name poetically translates as "Fortress of the Bears." And that is what it is. The densest concentration of brown bears in the world. Averaging about one bear per square mile.

Entering Peril Strait it was obvious with the rushing currents and narrowing passage why it had this name. Turning west, we squeezed through several more even narrower passages including Deadman Reach. It was here, with the golden light of evening warming us, the boat gliding silently close to shore, that I felt we should see a brown (grizzly bear). Almost like an answer, within only a few minutes, I spotted one in a small protected cove, turning rocks over, looking for an evening snack.

As we finally left the tortuous and narrow passages behind we briefly were exposed to the open Pacific Ocean. It was daunting, looking out, realizing that west toward the ocean's horizon, the view would not be broken until reaching Japan. A turn south, and once again we were safely behind a screen of islands but what islands they were. Rising up like a broken Mt. Fuji was a beautiful symmetrical snowcapped volcano. In a few more minutes, passing waterfalls spilling snowmelt into the sea, we were coming into the ferry dock at Sitka by the Sea.