Friday, February 29, 2008

Hiking Chiang Dao, Thailand

During my recent trip to Thailand I quickly discovered that SE Asia is not really a mountaineers choice location for summits. However, there is at least one mountain worthy of a hike to the summit. Chiang Dao is the 3rd highest peak and the highest limestone mountain in Thailand, standing at 2195meters. The highest peak is Doi Inthanon at 2595m, a simple drive to the top. I chose Chiang Dao on recommendation by a recent visitor and for its impressive prominence as you approach it. Birders from all over the world flock here to pursue locating a number of native birds. You can hire a birding guide to speed up the identification curve. The weather in winter is just cool enough at night to use a blanket and still reach the 80s during the day as opposed to Bangkok where it stays hot night and day in winter. Furthermore, it happened to be the only area in Thailand I encountered where the land seemed to still be in a relatively natural state of preservation. There are other national parks which likely, have nice natural areas as well; but my trip was short.

Access to this mountain is by bus (~$2) about 1.5hrs north of the city of Chiang Mai in far northern Thailand. Get off at the north end of the small town of Chiang Dao and find the intersection with a road going west 5km to Tham Chiang Dao caves. Here you can hire a motorbike taxi (<$2) or truck to the cave area and choose from a few different guesthouses or just stay in Chiang Dao Inn on the highway. Be sure to stock up on snacks in town. I choose to ride the motorbike 6km to Malee's Nature Guesthouse. Maelee's is in a good overnight location for exploring the caves, hiking and birding. You can buy meals here or from the small restaurants and mini-marts at the cave entrance. If you arrive the afternoon before your hike, you can visit the sacred retreat complex of Samnak Song Tham Ph Plong. This is a monastery where Buddhist monks can be seen meditating. Go about 1km past Malee's and climb the long, steep stairway up to a large temple, among forest and limestone cliffs. With more time, you can explore the Tham Chiang Dao caves which takes about an hour. At the caves, you hire a guide with a lantern to show you around the stalactites and stalagmites. From this area, there used to be a direct trail leading up to the summit of Chiang Dao. Since the national park did not like the condition of this trail, they closed the old trail and moved the trailhead to a higher location. This requires your own transport, renting a motorbike or bicycle, hiring an expensive taxi or hitch-hiking to a pass about 12km further up the road. The guesthouses will all try to convince you that it is too dangerous to go on your own and that you will get lost. They really just want to make some extra cash by selling you a tour with a guide service. So I had to just ignore the warnings and find my own way up there. I wanted to avoid having to pay some $32 for a 2 day trip I could do in one. I stood on the road around 7am and caught a ride up about a half hour later. The driver was taking 3 locals to a further village for the day's work. All I had to do was watch the scenery of the towering north face go by and look out for the trailhead sign near a pass.

From the trailhead, it must be around 3500' to the summit, just based on the time it took me to summit, about 3 hours. The guesthouses tell you around 5-6 hours from the trailhead to summit and most people camp. The trail initially starts off deceivingly flat before shooting up steeply to a notch, giving views of rolling rounded mountains and a village to the north. There is a little bit of muddy, root-grabbing terrain just before the notch. The tropical vegetation is mostly thin and open to the sky, giving lots of views throughout the length of the trail. However, there are periodic clusters of forest to find shade. If you are early, you can make it about half way to the summit in the shadow of the mountain.

Once you attain the initial notch, the views of limstone cliffs are inspiring and continue towards the summit. You are not able to see the summit here, but the trail curves left and follows an inner valley for about an hour. Along this stretch, you pass one intersection with 2 signs labeled in Thai. Not knowing Thai, I chose the trail to the left which seemed to be toward higher points. Luckily it was the right way and I passed through a campsite with about a dozen birding tourist staying. Most of them were scattered along the trail from to summit to camp, all with expensive cameras, binoculars and scopes. Beyond the camp, the trail steepened up a bit and wound up through more open country to a rocky knoll. From the top I could see a number of false summits around the mountain complex. By this time, it was already around 11am and the mid-day haze had developed. This prevented me from seeing very far away but the closest peaks of Chiang Dao were enough to hang out and admire for awhile. The air was warm, with a light breeze and I had it all to myself.

The walk back down took around 2 hours and the afternoon was heating up. Plan on 3 hours of leisurely walking down. No one stopped to pick me up at the trailhead. So I walked quickly down the paved road for about an hour until the same worker truck gave me a lift back to the park entrance gate. They had to stack crates a mile high on the bed to replace our bodies. With another 4km or so to go, I started walking again until a motorbike pulled over and took me the rest of the way to the cave for exploration. Malee's offered an amazing $4 buffet of Thai food that evening. I will have to say.... I did get my money's worth after that hike! Coincidentaly, there was a small group of students from Huxley College, WWU staying at Malee's that night.

Sunday, February 3, 2008

Orcas Island Ski and Snowshoe Trip

















When the snowlevel comes down to sea level, long-time club members like to think of special outings. In recent years we’ve managed to tour up to Blanchard Overlook, and along the Samish Bay dikes.
This time as the snow filled the lowlands we tried a variation on what is normally a special outing even in the summer.
With the highways difficult to drive due to lowland snow it seemed a remote idea to travel to Orcas Island, but the ferries aren’t bothered by snow that easily.
Driving into Eastsound the view was unusual to say the least for anyone who had been here in the summer. Looking more like Leavenworth than a seaside village we enjoyed snowshoeing and skiing on the trails and beaches around town. A study in contrast, we skied up the northside of Turtle Mt. but were able to hike a warm sunny, and mostly snowfree trail on the south side.
After some tentative exploration to Sunrise Rock and past the waterfalls of Moran State Park we were ready to tackle the “Big One.” Mt. Constitution!
What an adventurous and rewarding trip.
Beginning at the bottom with thin slippery snow and boot hiking; we soon transitioned into deeper snow where snowshoes and eventually skis became a necessity.
The last section of trail seemed to be along the top of a cliff band and we had to move with extra caution. Soon after, the final trail segment led to the startling sight of what of course appears to be an ancient rock watchtower rising up above all else, in a world of white and grey. Beautifully feathered in ice crystals from blowing snow we carefully made our way to the top; over drifts of snow spilling in from the open window slots and spreading about the floor and stairs. We could only remain outside briefly due to the powerful winds and cold but despite the lack of views, none of us were disappointed.
The trip down on a combination of snow and ice covered road and trails was not as enjoyable as we had hoped but the brief opening in the clouds just as we reached the viewpoint of Little Summit made it all worthwhile. In town, it felt like we were hut skiing, warm, dry and comfortable each evening, and yet picturesque accommodations on the waterfront. A very special trip.



North Cascades Ski and Snowshoe Exploration






When the winter snows have closed the North Cascades Highway, it’s always fun to pick a good day to drive to the gated end of the road and enjoy the serenity and beauty of this often overlooked outing. A small group of club members did just that. Frozen lakes and waterfalls, snowcapped peaks, and what seem like short simple hikes in the summer become more strenuous and exciting winter snow trips. The final segment of this special day was the ascent of Thunder Knob overlooking Diablo Lake. Two stream crossing, both flowing, route finding on a sometimes vague trail, and a final crosscountry compass trek were required to reach the summit. Wonderful views and not a little fulfillment was the perfect end to this day. Scouting some other trails though, gave us some more ideas for the next trip up the North Cascades during the winter.

Snowshoe and Ski Outings







From the snowy frozen highcountry of British Columbia to the magically transformed Baker Lake area the club has made good use of the Short=Notice Outings to enjoy some spectacular days.
Some of these trips required 4-wheel chain driving while others were suitable for any vehicle. As always conditions ruled the choices.
The Baker Lake outing was especially beautiful and included a mixed group of skiers and snowshoers able to tour along the sandbars revealed by low winter lake levels.
Baker and Shuksan were spectacular in the blue sky and the wildlife teemed along the lake margins, seemingly enjoying the brief burst of warm golden sunlight.
A simple nature trail at the summit of Grove Mt provided a magical snowhike and ended a wonderful day.

White Salmon Snowshoe Outings




Snowshoeing in winter can be an exciting and challenging experience. Fresh, deep snow, so lovely in the trees and on the mountains can be a struggle. With these conditions it’s best to have a large assortment of trail breakers. Thanks to Herm, there’s been a wonderful, almost weekly selection of short notice outings up the Mt. Baker Highway, this year. White Salmon Road has figures often but with exciting connections to viewpoints, Salmon Ridge Nordic Area, The White Salmon Lodge and various loops and alternatives. Conditions have varied widely sometimes hip deep fresh powder and other times fairly firm more moist snow. Many days were spectacular view days and others were, let’s just say “interesting.” Consistent throughout all these outings, everyone came away happy and eager to go again. Thanks for the great outings Herm, see you on another Short-Notice snowshoe soon.

Annual Mt. Erie Beer and Burger Hike





Back by popular demand; the annual Beer and Burger Hike to the summit of Mt. Erie went despite the horrendous weather.

It is amazing what motivates some hikers. The attraction of a visit at the Longhorn Tavern sure did the trick. The weather was absolutely miserable. We looked like a pack of rats moving up the trail like 9 beads strung on a string. We all grouped together is if to avoid the mixture of raindrops and sleet. Not a single complained was issued and I was very impressed. We ate a light lunch on top...briefly.... it was windy and we were in a cloud. We then wound our way down completing a loop around Whistle lake to our starting point. The trail was in excellent condition, although we encountered some muddy parts. For the first time noticed that all the trails were very well signed and together with a map detailing all the spurs (a must) we really had no problems. Several logs had been cut and removed. The vegetation was lush and green. The comraderie at the tavern was excellent. This I will repeat next year for sure.
Marjan

Paddle and a Hike



It had been quite some time since any of us had visited the Ben Ure cabin at Cornet Bay in Deception Pass State Park.
Only available on a limited basis it is none the less an especially unique location just out of line of the “shooting gallery” that the tidal fluxes cause at Deception Pass.
Afterwards we all enjoyed hiking some of the beach and “tunnel” loops located nearby.

Winter Lowland Hikes




With the deep snows of winter blocking much of the high country, it’s nice to enjoy the simple pleasures of a local lowland hike. Over various days, club members gathered on short notice to enjoy a variety of outings.
A bright sunny day at Clayton Beach and the gushing waterfall fed by recent snowmelt; a wildlife oriented saunter around the margins of flooded Tenant lake and the Hovander Park river front; and a surprisingly interesting sampling of trails around Fairhaven, Padden Creek & Marsh, and connections with the Interurban.