Mt Baker Club, Short Notice Outings, Fall 2007

Despite the rollercoaster fall weather of sun, rain, cloud, fog, ice, snow, and potential flooding;

members of the Mt Baker Club expertly matched conditions to outings for many memorable trips as the winter haltingly approached. Here is a sampling of these outings; several of which are

no longer possible until the spring (or summer) thaw.

Mt Loop Highway Adventures
The announcement of the opening of the Mt Loop Hwy after four years of closure provided an easy excuse for several trips to this area. For the past several years, club members had “nibbled” away at the broken ends of the Mt Loop via hikes and bike rides. Early in the season hikes to high mountain passes and picturesque lakes were still possible. With the arrival of snow and ice, shorter hikes and snowshoe trips were made beautiful by the freshly fallen snow. As always, we enjoyed a wide assortment of sights including dramatic summit views, raging river cataracts, pounding waterfalls, and fascinating historic sites.

Serpentine Lake, Coquihalla, BC
A long desired hike to a remote mountain lake, famed for the encircling outcrops of serpentine rock. Despite overcast weather we made our way up steeply through some of the most fascinating old-growth forest any of us had ever seen. Encroaching logging had not yet reached these slopes, allowing us to enjoy a cross country trek through a green carpeted forest characterized by a wide and wild assortment of tree species, sizes and ages. After enjoying the tranquil lake setting we intersected the rough trail and followed it down thus giving us a wonderful loop experience. Evidence of on-going logging up slope made us feel even more blessed to have experienced this wonderful area. On the drive back we visited various trailheads, interpretive sites, abandoned rail lines and other locations in this fascinating canyon with exciting plans for future trips. An excellent dinner in Hope provided a comfortable end to a memorable day.

Stimpson Reserve, Sudden Valley
An annual Club event, a sizeable group of members joined Janet for an enjoyable hike through this natural area. Warm wintery sunlight, attractively streaked through the forest framing surprisingly large trees and attractive wetlands and lakes. It was interesting, hiking from the new access trail and learning about other trail construction in the area. Afterwards we returned to Janet’s house for a wonderful selection of hot soups which gave us one of those rare opportunities to enjoy each others company indoors. Leaving, we all felt the warmth of not only the delicious soup but the good fellowship that we had shared. Many thanks to Janet for once again putting this outing together and opening her lovely home to all of us.

Returning to our customary meeting place at the Sunnyland School parking lot on this Memorial Day weekend, a group of us paid our respects at Memorial Park just down the street. The large trees lining the park had been planted in dedication fallen soldiers of the World War (I). A new memorial, sadly with vacant space still being filled, marks the names of more fallen soldiers from the wars that have since followed.

Mt Baker Highway Explorations
In our own backyard, we had several trips this fall to find and explore historic mines and trails. We enjoyed a wealth of experiences including: abandoned gold mines, culturally modified trees, historic and lost trails, waterfalls, wild goats & elk, and incredible mountain scenery. The highlight of our trips was undoubtedly our rediscovery of the original Mt Baker Trail which led to the club’s former Kulshan Cabin now just a location on the modern Heliotrope Trail. This trail was also used by some of the racers in the Mt Baker Marathon. Now with the snow covering the ground we eagerly wait for the summer to find the extent of the remaining portions of this abandoned but historically important trail.

Lynn Cedar, North Shore, Vancouver
A long awaited quest to find the 1,000 year old cedar of Lynn Canyon was successful for a group of club members this fall. A cloudy marginal day was perfect for the forest hike following sketchy directions to this magnificent tree. Picking our way along by way of abandoned trails, occasional steep slopes augmented by dubious ropes we felt some sense of accomplishment. Lunching on the banks of the Lynn River gave us more time to absorb the beauty and surprising wildness of our surroundings before returning to the urban setting of Vancouver. Not wanting to waste even this, we completed another long overdue goal of having dinner at the ethnically accurate Afghan Horsemen.

North Cascades Hwy
Camping in a vineyard, crunching ice on the hike to high mountain passes, skiing and snowshoeing at Washington Pass and Rainy Lake, all added to several days of fun in exploring a familiar area relatively close to home. Every year club members try to experience that last perfect blue sky outing before the fall storms close the pass for the remainder of the season. We’re not lucky all the time but this year we judged it perfectly, twice. Cold, powder dry snow, views of Liberty Bell and surrounding peaks from the snowcovered overlook, big open meadows, and lakes trapped in tight and vertical walled cirques were all blanketed by a cloudless and perfectly blue sky.

Southern Olympics
With marginal weather and the closure of Staircase and other forest access points we still managed to fill our days with exploring abandoned mountain railtrails, thundering remote waterfalls, and magnificent old growth forests in this proverbially wet area of the state. Lowering clouds encouraged us to visit waterside parks and historic sites along the south end of the Hood Canal. This was an enjoyable trip and one of those unusual times when everyone was willing and pleased to dry out in a motel and enjoy a hot dinner indoors.

Hwy 2 Snow Exploring
With the advent of low elevation snow we set off along Hwy 2 to sample and check conditions for numerous winter outings. The morning was spent snow hiking the old growth forest near Lake Elizabeth. Later we explored the conditions of the North Fork Skykomish and Beckler River drainages. We ended the day with a ski tour in the big tree area of the Smithbrook Rd just east of Stevens Pass. We came away with plenty of ideas for snowshoe and ski tour trips this winter.

Samish River Paddle
One of the few ways to actually enjoy the rainy fall weather is with a kayak paddle. Responding to a call for a mountain hike, an assortment of intrepid paddlers took their cue from stormy conditions to meet and explore the Samish River drainage instead. Beaver signs, animal slides, eagles, salmon and a sinuous route provided us with plenty of interest. The short but intense paddle against the current of the upper river was prematurely ended by a small but definitive log jamb. It was a good place to turn around and enjoy the free ride down current until meeting the rising tide. The predicted heavy rains and wind didn’t reach us until we were safely at home that night. What a break.

Fall Outing: KVR Railtrail, BC

Thanks to the old Short Notice Signup List members of the Mt Baker Club were able to form a fall outing to explore the KVR (Kettle Valley Railtrail) in the Tulameen Valley, northwest of Princeton, BC. This is one of the three most fascinating sections of the trail in our area and possibly in the nearly 1000 km trail.

The weather cleared beyond Manning Park and the fall colors were vibrant and golden. Eventually, the entire group settled at the riverside Granite City Rec Area, adjacent to the gold mining ghost town of Granite City. From here we could bike the short distance to Coalmont and ride the trail either north to Otter Lake or south towards Princeton.

Riding north the first day was a sunny trip along the entire length of Otter Lake into the ranchland stretching all the way to Merritt. One memorable event occurred during this ride. We were just rounding a bend in the trail when suddenly a group of young cyclist (later we learned that they were from Vancouver) frantically biked past us shouting “Bear! Bear! There’s a Bear on the trail!” One of our members bravely (some might say foolishly) slowly and noisily biked ahead. There, at a mere 300 yards distance, was a huge black bear apparently sleeping in the middle of the trail. Cautiously he approached and with a loud shout drove the beast from the trail. The only response was a bellowing Moooo as the “Bear” wandered off to join the rest of the herd under the trees. This made interesting conversation at the Coalmont Hotel & Pub afterward and around our cozy campfire that evening.

The next day dawned brilliant. The morning light lit up our camp through the canopy of golden cottonwood and aspen leaves. The blue sky welcomed us as we cycled south. The canyon quickly narrowed but due to the frequent north-south orientation, provided us with warm sunlight for nearly the entire day.

Passing quiet river pools, beaches, and pleasant picnic sites we eventually reached the tunnel and copula viewpoint.

Here the river became a raging flow as it sped around the bend and through great boulders which had forced the construction of the tunnel. As if to emphasize the drama of this place, a yellow canoe could be seen, impaled on the rocks below us.

From here the group separated, some returning, while others continued past rocky outcrops, hoodoo formations, and the famous (soon to be designated a World Heritage Site) vermillion cliffs. The final section of trail sped through a lighted tunnel and into downtown Princeton. A fine day was had by all.

The next day, the group disbanded with various plans for the drive home: exploring more ghost towns, searching for pictographs, visiting historic cemeteries, and enjoying the many viewpoints and short hikes along the way. We all felt that we wanted a return trip next year.

Fall Outing: Yakima Valley

Inspired by the wonderful article in the Wash. Trails Assoc magazine (April 2007 Hiking Wine Country) and motivated by the damp, dark fall weather in Western Washington, we headed east for a few days of drier conditions. We were not disappointed. The fall colors were at their peak, and locals claimed they were exceptional this year.

A wonderful variety of short outings were ours to enjoy including: hiking old favorites like Cowiche, Umtanum and Black Canyons; visiting new ones like Selah Butte, Horse Heaven Hills, Snow Mountain Ranch, Badger Mt; and exploring fascinating geologic features of volcanic flows and glacial floods. For variety we also managed some cultural explorations including Ahtanum Mission, the murals of Toppenish, the famous vineyard & hop industry of the Yakima Valley, and some delightful restaurants.

Some other highlights included a short visit to Roslyn. This picturesque little town was the outdoor film location for “Northern Exposure,” but is also the center of a short but fascinating Mine Rail trail.
The drive and hikes down Yakima Canyon were beautiful though the big-horned sheep had not yet moved to the canyon walls, part of their wintering range. On the way home we decided to drive through the eastern part of Mt. Rainier NP. Of course we returned to the rain but the views along the American River were beautiful and our passage over Chinook Pass was poignant as we realized that snow would soon be closing it.










This was a wonderful fall trip, one that gave us more ideas for the future; maybe a short notice outing next year? Thanks again to our friends at the WTA (http://www.wta.org/), we look forward to sharing the trail with you again.

Steveston, BC, Year-Round Destination

Photos: http://www.mountbakerclub.org/StevestonBC
Thanks to the Mt Baker Club Short-Notice Outings list-serve; a group of us shared a uniquely different mid-week outing. It was a short drive and border crossing bringing us to our first stop of the morning; an amazing Buddhist Temple. Incredible use of gold-leaf; brilliantly painted architecture, and carefully constructed gardens were a delight, encouraging us to begin the day in a relaxed and reflective mood.

Minutes and a world away: We explored Finn Slough, the historic home of fishermen, houseboats, and waterside shacks. Little changed; small boats tied up, precarious little docks perched above the swirling slough waters; charming gated garden entrances. A brief stop at the New London Farm; clean, cute, Victorian, its primness made an interesting counterpoint.

Onto the historic and charming downtown of Steveston with a light snack from Pajo’s Fish & Chips at Garry Point Park. Strolls along the waterfront, wetlands, waterfowl, historic cannery, boat shops, and homes, highlighting the rich and varied heritage of the area.

The rest of the day we entertained ourselves with walking through the compact downtown. Some tourist oriented shops, but well supported by locals giving Steveston a more “real” feel than one might expect. Highlights were the Japanese and Community Cultural Center and, the newly established but wonderfully rustic Romanian Bakery with its welcomed warmth from the wood fired oven (the loaves were exceptionally delicious but huge; make sure you’ve either got a very hungry group or a strong rack on your bike).

Throughout the afternoon the weather constantly changed from beautiful warmth and calm; to dark, grey, wind, and rain. Somehow we were always in a bakery or coffee shop when it rained and were always pleasantly surprised that it was nice again when we were ready to continue our walk.

Towards evening we wandered into an unexpected event. CTV news was doing their community focus program with the evening news filmed at a different community each evening. By wonderful coincidence it was being filmed on the Steveston boardwalk this day. We were given lots of little mementos (key chains, brochures, mini-thermometers, 2010 Olympic pins, etc.) and treated to the Kyoto Drums a reflection of the strong Japanese heritage of Steveston. The news anchors were very nice and between their on-air presentations, they would tirelessly pose for photos with local people including their pets.

As daylight faded into evening we found a window table at Le Nakamura restaurant for an excellent Japanese dinner. Afterward it was a short walk around the block to the Cultural Center where we were allowed to watch a Kendo class in its entirety. The participants ranging from old to young and beginner to advanced made a thrilling display of practice and training bouts with this Japanese form of sword fencing.

An easy drive and again an empty border crossing (going south) brought us home without incident. We all came away from this trip delighted and eager to return to enjoy the many hiking, biking, and cultural experiences that this nearby community has to offer.

Alaska: Final Entry

I made my way back to Juneau with a hop over the mountains in a light aircraft, the same one stuffed with spruce buds for making winter ale at the local brewery. The big choice facing me was; to use a free ticket for a one-day flight home or, take the slow boat to Bellingham. I was quite surprised at the overpowering feeling of the “rightness” in returning by ferry.

A couple more days of poking around Juneau and all too soon I was heading south for the last and longest ferry ride of the trip. The evening light slowly descended but not without giving me extraordinary views at glaciers calving, sending their young bergs down into the waterways. Later, this same night, we saw great tail flukes of diving whales just off our starboard side. Silhouetted against the star light and ocean phosphorescence, it was a remarkable sight.

I had opted to sleep on deck, much braver now, or at least familiar with ferry camping. They were the best nights that I spent on the entire trip. Invisible warmth from infrared heating, open views to the islands, sea and sky, cool evening breezes. Some of the stops required brief middle of the night dockings, It was surreal to see these now familiar ports again but cloaked in darkness with only splashes of light from the dock lamps.

The rhythm of the trip was steady but slow, second chances to see mountains and passages, more time to meet interesting passengers and crew. I invited the US Forest Service Ranger stationed on the ferry to join the Mt Baker Club for a hike during their 8 hour lay-over in Bellingham. (Which he later did. We showed him the great views from Oyster Dome and enjoyed hearing about the hiking in SE Alaska).

Possibly the strangest part of the trip was arriving in Bellingham and getting picked up by my daughter for the 10 minute ride home. No other trip that I have taken presented such little travel time between my home and the start and finish of the trip. This made it a truly Bellingham experience.

Post Script
I’ve had time to reflect on this trip and second guess how I might have done it differently, knowing what I now know. If I had been able to do this trip with one or two friends we could have shared much of the additional costs of car rental, fuel, and lodging while still being able to take “last minute” side trips. I would have also had more company but would probably not have spent as much time with local people and fellow travelers.

A package tour (cruise ship) would have been far easier and could have actually been cheaper (this assumes that you can find one friend to join you and pay their own way – double occupancy). But, I would have had to give up my versatility and freedom, had only hours not days to explore special places, and many of the side trips would not have been possible.

For my future trips to Southeast Alaska; I’m going to think about winter and spending more time at single locations. Juneau for skiing and spring paddling; Sitka for an overnight paddle and volcano hike; and Skagway for summer exploring along the Chilkoot Trail and the remarkable ecological diversity along the highway to Whitehorse. Then again, I’d also like to visit my new friends on Prince of Whales Island, attend the Norway Festival at Petersburg, and boat up the Stekine from Wrangell.

Alaska: Final Entry; for now.

Gustavus, Gateway to Glacier Bay

The public ferry from Juneau to Gustavus was rumored to be brought back in service but wasn’t available during my visit so the plane out of Skagway was my only option. The clouds kept us low so we couldn’t pop up over the snowy mountains but instead I was treated to aerial views of a large whale frolicking in the Lynn Canal as we made our lower elevation trip down the coast.

Arriving at the Gustavus airport the owner of a local B&B as well as Bud of Bud’s Rental Car service met me. In a flash I was behind the wheel and following the B&B owner back to my cottage. Settled in and pleasantly on my own, I spent the rest of the day exploring the sights of Gustavus by car. Though small in population the distances and network of roads require some form of transportation and I was happy to have one of Bud’s cars to use.

The visitor complex for Glacier Bay was extensive and lightly populated with visitors and college-age workers. Still early in the season, there were plenty of opportunities to hike empty trails and take out kayaks whenever you wanted. A couple of bears provided local excitement. The juvenile but large Cinnamon male was getting aggressive and would feint a charge when the rangers attempted to “shoo” him away from trails and cabins. The mother black with two cubs preferred to be left alone but always became the center of excitement when spotted. This actually led to an interesting encounter during one of my early morning walks. I was shuffling along the southern waterside trail which is set just inside the tree line above the shore. I saw the mother and one of the cubs not far from the trail on the waterside close to the beach. I made sure she could hear me and kept a steady shuffling pace and I think I was speaking or singing or something so she could kept close track of my movements. This excellent behavior was foiled by the second cub which became alarmed at the growing crowd of tourist clicking away with cameras and slowly crowding the bears from the water’s edge. When the cub gave its loud alarm cry the mother just assumed I was at fault and charged me. For some reason I can’t explain, I just kept up the same disinterested shuffling gait and whatever inane chattering I had been doing. This total lack of response was apparently the perfect thing to do and she immediately turned from me to find the real source of her cub’s alarm. Later I think I noticed my pulse was somewhat elevated. A remarkable memory, the lesson I took away from this is that the tourist once again were probably the most dangerous element in this encounter. At least they are predictable.

Aside from the hiking and paddling among the many small islands I had a chance to delve into the natural history and dynamic forces of nature that are at work in Glacier Bay both above and especially below the surface of the sea. While doing some research at the local library (excellent facility) I accessed the excellent write-up on the famous plane wreck that had occurred here. Originally Gustavus was a secret WWII military installation with a relatively large airport. A plane went down during a snow-squall. The story gave this a human element and I set out to find the plane wreck. Of the many sites of wilderness plane wrecks that I have seen over the years this was by far the most remarkable. So many elements of the story were still visible and much of the plane, though firmly gripped by the forest now, was still intact.

During my several days here, I observed the harvesting of spruce buds. I knew of their value to earlier cultures (they are very high in vitamin C) so I naturally thought they were being gathered for some sort of organic product. I was partially right. They were being collected for use in the Alaskan Breweries Winter-Ale, a seasonal product. When I flew out the next day for Juneau, the back of the small plane was filled with bags of these same spruce buds.

Mt. Kabau Lookout, BC

The Mt. Kabau lookout above the Similkameen and Osoyoos Valleys in southern BC (north of Omak in the US) is in the center of one of the protected areas of the Southern Okonogan Grassland Shrub-Steppe Natural Areas.

There are wonderful similarities between this public use lookout (with small wood stove) and our club's Winchester Lookout. A memorial bench holds a plaque with a beautiful inscription. If the Mt Baker Club were ever to have a "sister" lookout, this should be it.

Club members had made several ski attempts in past years to reach the lookout but in the summer the 12 miles of sometimes rough gravel road is easily accessed by all vehicles. A short walk from the parking lot brings you to the knoll where the lookout commands the remarkable view. There are beautiful and easy trails at the top. This would be a worth while club outing and could include exploring the pictographs and other rich culturual and ecological sites along this section of the Crows Nest Highway.

Just north of Hwy 3 Crow's Nest Highway at Richter Pass. A big sign marks the road with distance to lookout. This is at the highpoint of the highway just barely west of the famous Spotted Lakes (you can see them as you drive up and from the lookout) and east of Keremeos.